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29.01.10

Tomorrow’s designers learn today

Saga Furs has a long tradition of hosting Young Designer seminars for students and fledgling designers who will be the next generation of fashion creators. Along with giving the students invaluable experience and knowledge in working with furs, the seminars provide a means of spreading the Saga Furs concept of Responsible Luxury.

 

Many young designers want to work with fur. It’s a fact. But many of them have only limited opportunities to engage in hands-on learning from experts. When young designers visit Saga Furs Design Centre, not only do they learn by doing, they also learn about the ethics incorporated in the Saga Furs chain of production. The seminars typically contain sessions explaining various processes that go into a finished pelt, and a visit to a fur farm.

 

“Our Young Designer seminars have always been a vital function of Saga Furs. They give students of design a unique opportunity not only to work with real luxury fur, but also a look at the ethically responsible processes that are behind our brand. The atmosphere at Saga Furs Design Centre exposes the students to the vast potential of fur, and we have a staff of experts who will assist them in learning various techniques,” says Saga Furs CEO Jan Erik Carlson. “You might say Saga Furs helps design students realize their dreams. And if you look at fashion or fur houses in the trend centres of the world you will find many designers who have attended Young Designer seminars, and who are now working with fur.”

 

Starting from scratch

Nicola Louise Wollon, a fourth-year student at Central St. Martins in London, had never worked with fur before visiting Saga Furs Design Centre. While interning at Lanvin she met Saga Furs creative director Dorte Lenau Klint and was invited to a seminar.

 

“I learned one thousand things in one morning: qualities, sewing and cutting methods and lots more,” Wollon says. “I wasn’t aware of the techniques themselves, but knew them from a creative point of view.”

 

Wollon brought sketches to the seminar after discussing them with her teachers. Saga Furs will sponsor her final collection and Wollon wants to “do things that are not allowed,” but she’d confident she can make them work.

 

Taking experience in a new direction

Anton Hinkonen, a Master’s student at the University of Art & Design in Helsinki, won the Finnish National Fur Trade Associations design contest and made the semi-finals at the Milan 2008. At Saga Furs Design Centre he was working on ideas for a “pre-final collection,” a mock run at his finals for school. He has been sponsored by Finnish Fur Sales in various capacities and has created three collections using fur, but this time around he plans a men’s collection.

 

“Menswear poses some difficulties, but it’s interesting to try something new,” Hinkonen says. “With women you can do almost everything, but with men you have to think. Men don’t want volume. What I want to do is make some light winter jackets in Silver and Blue Fox. I’ve seen a lot of techniques before, but I’ve discovered some new samples here.”

 

Expanding a brand with fur

Sanaz Shirazi is growing her two-year-old eponymous line and will use fur to do so. The brand found valuable PR windfall when Sienna Miller was photographed wearing a gillet from the collection.

 

The line is represented in 10 markets and has done gillets in rabbit and shearling. “Now it’s time to upgrade and use mink and fox for a younger audience, 16 and up. They can realize the elegance and luxury of fur, and that it never goes out of style,” she says. “Another idea is to do some men’s pieces, and I’d like to make some fur hats targeted at ski resorts.”

 

As she plans for expansion into new markets, with new fur products, Shirazi is inquiring about manufacturers who can make her designs. Saga Furs will be able to step in and help in this capacity. “I’ve learned so much here. It’s amazing what you can do. I’ve seen things I didn’t think were possible,” she says.

 

Home as school

IdaTrollstøl used to sew together little fur purses when she was a little girl. She grew up with fur, as her mother is a furrier with a shop outside Oslo. Now a third-year student at Esmod, Trollstøl is working on her final collection and wants to use a lot of fur. She brought sketches with her to Saga Furs Design Centre.

 

“I have ideas, but need to come up with some new twists based on what I’ve seen here. There are so many techniques,” she says. “I especially like Silver Fox, the colours, volume and hair length, and all the versatility it offers.”

 

Trollstøl appreciates having a mother who has a furrier studio. “I can play and experiment there, and I’m going to spend a lot of time there this year,” she says. “On the longer term, I’m not sure what will happen, but I would like to try selling pieces at my mother’s shop to see it customers want it.”


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