Ask any fashion editor, and they’ll tell you that a great coat is an instant outfit. New York designers fully understand this: in a city where winter tends to involve sub-zero temperatures, what you wear underneath gets less viewing time when you’re out, so statement outerwear is key. And few things are more striking than fur.
At New York fashion week, designers kicked off the AW17 womenswear season on a strong fur note. A new informal approach to fur was felt at many of the houses, informed by the way fur has been adapted for the street: throwing on a glamorous mink coat over a pair of frayed jeans and a hoodie. As Marc Jacobs noted of his fur-filled show: “This collection is my representation of the well-studied dressing up of casual sportswear.”
Here, we round up our pick of the trends from the New York collections, where neutrals and natural fur colours were big across the board: beige, caramel, grey and golden hues.
Tonal looks are a go-to for instant chic. Designers used fur to add texture and wow factor to their colour schemes, like Oscar de la Renta who based a tonal look around sheared tomato mink coat. Michael Kors sent out a purple fox coat over a wine-coloured sparkly jumpsuit (vibe: Dynasty’s Krystle Carrington 2017) and a voluminous golden-beige fox coat over a matching slinky dress. Moncler also got in on the trend with head-to-toe pink.
Soft knitwear was elevated with fur accents. At Prabal Gurung, model-of-the-moment Bella Hadid opened in a cable knit coat with a fox trimmed hood while an intricate oversize jumper had mink diamond appliqués. Sally LaPointe, who has become synonymous with cool fur-trimmed sweaters, used fox on her slouchy sweaters.
Fur continues to serve as a painterly canvas for designers, from abstract florals to graphic modernity and playful freehand drawings. New York’s designers used the intarsia technique to experiment with different fur lengths, seen in Prabal Gurung’s colourful mink and fox coats and in a striking white fox coat with black lines at Oscar de la Renta. Derek Lam opted for a crisp monochrome gilet chubby while Thom Browne got creative with crayon colours on a sheared mink and karakul coat.
SUPERSIZE SLEEVES AND STREETWEAR SHAPES
From Vetements’ gigantic MA1 flight jacket to Justin Bieber’s tour merchandise, fashion is enamoured with streetwear. The proportions of hoodies and sweatshirts echoed in New York’s ultra-sumptuous oversize fur pieces with extra long, massive sleeves. Case in point: Jonathan Simkhai’s fox coat, Marc Jacobs’ Finnraccoon-sleeved outerwear and Linder’s opulent, voluminous black floor-length fox coat with a white lapel.
Designers did refined, classic fur chic with a twist: a collarless mink coat at Brock Collection, a seriously glamorous frosted black mink coat at The Row, a Black Cross mink coat with tough black leather details at Creatures of the Wind and Derek Lam’s lattice mink intarsia. Thom Browne’s menswear-inspired Silver Blue mink coat was another standout piece.
From Oscar De La Renta’s tightly belted fifties-style fox skirts to Sally LaPointe’s gorgeous fox chubby coat with fabric pocket flaps and Michael Kors shaggy black dyed black Silver Fox coat with sexy shoulder cut-outs, animalistic glamour was in the air.
A quick look at street style images will tell you that fur opulence during daytime is well and truly here to stay, preferably mixed with something casual, perfectly exemplified by Marc Jacobs this season where he put a glamorous full fox hooded jacket with a retro tracksuit top and a pair of baggy corduroy trousers. Brock Collection did a sensual off-the-shoulder belted mink coat but paired it with jeans and men’s flats. Nicole Miller showed her feather-effect Silver Fox with camo trousers. And Altuzarra’s renaissance-inspired teardrop pearl-embellished mink coats are guaranteed to make an appearance during the day.