If there’s one thing to take away from the AW17 shows it’s that the fur coat reigned supreme as the season’s ultimate statement outerwear. An opulent retro vibe ran throughout the collections, in both muted and colourful furs. Mink, fox and Finnraccoon were also used as sumptuous texture clashes – think fur against slinky silks, vinyl and butter soft leather. Here, we chart the seven trends we’ll be wearing next season.
BACK TO NATURE
Designers looked to fur to set the tone for next season’s key neutrals. From gold and grey fox types at Jonathan Simkhai and Elie Saab to Fendi’s use of pastel mink and black cross mink at Creatures of the Wind, the soft tones of natural furs and the arresting but subtle beauty of natural markings are back in a big way – a look that goes hand in hand with autumn’s strong vintage-inspired vibe.
As designers turn their focus to natural furs, they’ve also fallen in love with the striking effect of contrasting furs, whether it’s colours or different hair lengths. It’s the perfect way to work autumn’s ultra-textured look – Louis Vuitton and Moschino’s multi-fox pieces are already everywhere online. And with heritage checks and seventies plaid as major trends for AW17, this was of course interpreted in fur with patchwork styles as well.
For AW17, craft is getting the glamour treatment. Donatella Versace sheared Finnraccoon and Fox into a vampish hourglass shape, Altuzarra covered his mink coats in delicate pearls and Brock Collection returned to the old school artisanal allure of let-out mink. From snowball-effect fox to Fendi’s mink tiles, these are modern statement looks rooted in handcrafted techniques.
There’s a full-on floral moment happening in interior design that seems to be spilling over into fashion with modern-day verdant tapestry motifs and chintzy furnishing fabrics being re-interpreted in fur. Vibrant winter bouquets and autumnal leaves in fur popped up everywhere from Gucci to Prabal Gurung and Fendi.
Taking their cue from midcentury modern-inspired graphics, furs in striking patterns are a key look for winter, like Amanda Wakeley’s clean colour-block lines or Missoni’s trippy stripes – a trend that’s guaranteed to clock up some street style miles come next season.
Intarsia fur is always a good idea, not least because of the seemingly endless possibilities it offers. Some designers did mink and fox combinations – like Michael Kors’ leopard-esque outerwear – while others, like Leonard Paris and Fendi, played with paint-splattered flower patterns.
Next season’s fur trims are not your average furry extras. The look is big, bold statement collars (at Miu Miu, Ellery and Mary Katrantzou) emphasising shoulder proportions with plush fox for serious volume – a soft but loud translation of the square power shoulder tailoring that fashion favours right now. Fur sleeves are also getting oversize: sculpted and voluminous.