Imaginative, innovative and inspiring: the AW18 runways offered a wealth of covetable fur looks. The international collections were characterised by craftsmanship and a no-boundaries approach to style and creativity – here are the seven trends that stood out.
As predicted in our AW18 runway forecast, stripes were a major story on the runways. Rather than using traditional printed stripe fabric, designers cleverly utilised fur’s natural shading to create stripe-effect pieces with gorgeous depth. Silver and blue fox were alternated, fox jackets were constructed in waves so the underwool showed up in streaks of lighter colour, or diagonal bands of plucked mink were placed on sheared mink.
This season, designers took the much-loved intarsia technique in an organic new direction. Previously, we’ve seen lots of literal motifs such as flowers and trees but now, the look is more non-figurative. It’s about hinting at the familiar in an interpretative manner, like artistic animal prints and abstract patterns, echoing fur’s naturally beautiful colouring.
Texture and contrasting materials popped up everywhere from New York to Paris, and the more luxurious the better. Mink and fox were paired with just about everything: wavy astrakhan, fuzzy wool, curly Mongolian lamb or supple snake – great proof that opposites attract. Dolce & Gabbana went all out with their coat collage: Mink, Fox and Finnraccoon with added sheep and goat.
Not since the 1950s and 60s have fur-trimmed pieces enjoyed such as massive following with designers. It’s a trend that’s all about the unexpected: leather shorts with mink cuffs, tops with mink ruffle peplums, mink-trimmed lace boots – instantly elevating things to precious new heights. It’s that luxurious little extra that makes a big difference, like fox pockets on a classic coat.
Graphics and geometrics
Considering fur’s endless possibilities it’s no wonder designers increasingly use it in place of textiles. Want an argyle pattern coat? Let’s do it in intarsia mink. A tweed jacket? Ditto. From wording to house logos and monograms, fur brings a beautiful tactile quality to well-known garments, and it’s definitely a look that’s here to stay.
The styling tricks of the street – mixing high and low, checks and florals, sportswear and couture-like pieces – have very much infiltrated the catwalk. Whether it’s reimagining cool-girl staples such as denim jackets and hoodies in fox and mink, respectively, or amping up strappy tops in fur, these are the looks we can expect to see on fashion’s street style stars.
The classic fox trim got a powerful update for AW18 with voluminous cuffs and striking lapels in contrast colours. Fox adds drama, glamour and oversize statement value – perfect for a season where more is more and less is a bore.